NV Divella Gussago Franciacorta Blanc de Blancs, Lombardy, Italy
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ABOUT THIS WINE
This zero/zero Franciacorta is an absolute stunner. Not only is it one of the only naturally-made wines from the region, but also the only one made by a female winemaker. Alessandra’s precision and thoughtfulness are expressed in the wine in the form of racy acidity and clean, mineral-driven depth. Soft, slow hand pressing of the grapes with the manual wood basket press results in a light maceration. With only 1g/L of residual sugar present in the bottle, and a whopping 33 months on the lees, the wine is racy and full on the palate, with notes of brioche.
ABOUT THIS PRODUCER
At twenty-nine-years old, Alessandra Divella is the Italian answer to grower Champagne, on track to upend the industrial farming practices rampant in Franciacorta. Her vines have been organic from the start and her two hectares, on lease for thirty years from an older neighbor, teem with life, including rosehips and praying mantises. The aim is to eventually move toward permaculture. Grapes are always hand harvested and treated gently.
Alessandra herself has a quiet confidence that belies the adrenaline rush of her wines: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir so saline and bracing they make your heart race. She does not come from a winemaking family but rather stumbled into it through interactions with winemakers that made her "feel at home." She does, however, draw from her family heritage when it comes to detail and precision: her Italian father (for which her NiNì cuvée is named) and Swiss mother (Clo Clo) are both academics.
Zero sulfur / zero dosage, Alessandra's wines are 100% méthode champenoise so dialed into their provenance of clay and limestone that your mouth will salivate for minutes (if not hours) afterward. With less than a decade of winemaking experience under her wing, Alessandra has already achieved pioneer status within the region as one of the first estates to farm organically and the first to be female-led. The exceptional level of wines produced is mind-melting, especially considering that this is only the beginning.